Kamo eggplant is one of the most recognisable Kyo yasai, the traditional Kyoto vegetables, and also one of the most misunderstood. People who are used to the long, thin Japanese eggplant or the large Italian aubergine sometimes treat it the same way and end up with a result that does not do the variety justice. This is a guide to what makes it different and how to cook it well.
What makes Kamo eggplant different from standard varieties ¶
Kamo eggplant is round, roughly the size of a large apple, with a deep purple skin and dense, creamy flesh. The skin is thicker than the long Japanese variety, which means it holds its shape through extended cooking. The flesh absorbs liquid slowly and evenly, which makes it well suited to simmered dishes where you want the vegetable to take on the flavour of the broth without becoming soft.
Where it is grown and why it matters ¶
The Kamo eggplant designation requires that the vegetable be grown in specific areas of Kyoto, primarily in the Kamigamo district in the north of the city. The growing conditions there, including the alluvial soil along the Kamo River, are part of what gives the variety its particular texture. We buy from Tanabe Farm in Kamigamo, which has been growing Kamo eggplant for two generations. The farm is small enough that we can visit and see the growing method directly.
How to store it before cooking ¶
Kamo eggplant keeps better than the long variety. Store it at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, and use it within four to five days of purchase. Do not refrigerate it unless the weather is very hot, as cold temperatures can cause the flesh to discolour and become bitter. If you cut it and are not using all of it at once, brush the cut surface with a little oil and wrap it tightly.
Three ways to cook Kamo eggplant ¶
The most traditional method is dengaku: halve the eggplant, score the flesh in a crosshatch pattern, brush with oil, and grill cut-side down until softened. Then spread with a miso paste sweetened with mirin and grill for another two minutes until the miso caramelises. The second method is simmering in dashi with light soy and mirin until just tender, then serving cold the next day. The third, simpler method: slice thick, fry in sesame oil until golden, and dress with ponzu.
Kamo eggplant is in season from mid-July through late September. We stock it from Tanabe Farm in Kamigamo and it is one of the items that sells out fastest on Tuesday and Friday mornings. If you have questions about how to cook it, ask us in the shop.